A mighty fortress

Everyone needs some time off on the weekends – also the sun, it seems. Another rainy, tropical Sunday awaits you as you get up. The sky covered with unhealthy looking yellowish clouds. The first activity of the day: Going to church. Finally, you get to see one of those impressive neo-gothic churches in Shadyside. St. Andrew, a Lutheran church, resembles the fortress mentioned in Luther’s most well-known song with its massive travertine walls and belfry-like tower. The inside is not air-conditioned; the humidity and temperature seem to be even worse than outside. Thus the congregation sits there sweating and fanning, putting the Genesis-verse “in toil you shall…” into undesired practice.

The interior is illuminated by huge stained-glass windows, all bearing the names of their sponsors and the name of a commemorated person. Not surprisingly, the honored church members all had German-sounding names. The second half of the 19^th century saw a massive influx of German and Scandinavian immigrants to the Pittsburgh area, working in the steel mills, glass factories and other crafts. A good portion of those new citizens brought their Evangelical-Lutheran religion with them. Over time, the congregation has embraced people of other origins. Next to you in the pew are some people of Hispanic and African American background.

The pastor is probably suffering most from the difficult climatic conditions, wearing a simple alb and a sumptuous green stole. The ceiling fans do not provide enough cooling and by the time of the sermon, the poor priest has streams flowing down his face. Most songs are not familiar to you, but there is at least one tune that you remember. Today, the old magnificent organ can rest while the piano takes over its part with its light sound. After the worship is over, you shake hands and exchange a few words with the pastor. Unfortunately, you miss the cookies and cake that have been prepared for the worn-out participants. You are supposed to pick Nini up, a Taiwanese co-student.

For the second time, you accompany her to the Chinese supermarket. In contrast to the last visit, the Strip District is deserted on this rainy Sunday. Curious strollers and sunshine shoppers are staying home today. But luckily, the Lotus Food Company can rely on a never-ceasing stream of Asian customers that do not mind getting wet for fresh Tofu and rare fruits. Swiftly, Nini picks up the items on her illegible Taiwanese shopping list.

On the way back, you stop at the Polish church of the neighborhood. The historicist brick building is named for St. Stanislaus Kostka, a Polish Jesuit. With its blend of Baroque and Romanesque influences, it gives a stark contrast to the predominantly neo-gothic churches in Shadyside. Built at a time when the vast majority of the quarter’s population was foreign-born, it now actually houses the remainder of three previously separate Catholic congregations.

The Strip District has seen many changes and hardships. Being settled in the second half of the 19^th century, the flat stretch of flood-prone land next to the Allegheny River attracted mills and factories. The formidable connection via the waterways and railroads transformed the area into a market- and warehouse district. But those developments were flanked by terrible housing conditions, disastrous floods, explosions and fires. With the downfall of the railroads and the advent of the truck, many wholesalers moved out, not to mention the collapse of the steel industry in more recent decades.

But the church is alive and kicking, hosting its annual congregation festival soon, as the poster on its door proclaims.